Reading Goldwell Color Numbering: Tone Codes Explained

The Goldwell numbering system looks intimidating at first, but once you understand the logic, formulation becomes fast and intuitive. Every Topchic, Colorance, and related Goldwell shade follows the same structure. Here is how to read it so you can predict tone outcomes before you mix a single bowl.

The Anatomy of a Goldwell Shade

A Goldwell shade number typically looks like 7GB or 6NN. Each piece means something specific:

• The first number: The level (depth) of the shade, from 1 (blackest) to 11 (lightest).
• The letter(s): The tone direction.
• A doubled letter (like NN or RR): An intensified version of that tone.

Understanding Level

Level is the lightness or darkness of the color, independent of tone. Goldwell levels go:

• 1: Blue black
• 2: Black
• 3: Dark brown
• 4: Medium brown
• 5: Light brown
• 6: Dark blonde
• 7: Medium blonde
• 8: Light blonde
• 9: Very light blonde
• 10: Pastel / lightest blonde
• 11: Special lift blonde

Memorize the level chart first. Once you can assess a client's natural level at a glance, every formula decision gets faster.

Tone Codes and What They Mean

After the level, one or two letters describe the tone:

• N: Natural
• NN: Intense natural (for resistant gray)
• NA: Natural ash
• A: Ash
• B: Beige
• G: Gold
• GB: Gold beige
• K: Copper
• KR: Copper red
• R: Red
• RR: Intense red
• RB: Red brown
• V: Violet
• P: Pearl (cool pastel)
• BS: Blue silver

Reading Examples

• 6N: Dark blonde, natural tone.
• 8GB: Light blonde with gold and beige undertone.
• 5RR: Light brown, intense red.
• 10P: Pastel pearl toner, very cool.
• 7NN: Medium blonde, intense natural for resistant gray.

Primary vs. Secondary Tones

When two letters appear, the first letter is the dominant tone and the second is the secondary. For example, 7GB is primarily gold with a beige softening, while 7BG would lean more beige with a gold whisper. This ordering is critical when balancing warmth in a formula.

Special Codes Worth Knowing

• MAX: High-saturation reds and coppers (Topchic MAX line).
• HL (High Lift): For maximum lift blondes, mixed 1:2 with 9%.
• BlondeControl: High-lift toning line for natural blondes.
• NA / ABN: Ash-leaning shades that neutralize warmth.

How the Number System Helps You Formulate

Once you can read the number, you can mentally map every shade on the shade card. That means you can:

• Choose a level at or below your lift target to avoid flat results.
• Neutralize unwanted underlying pigment with the right tone code (ash or pearl for warmth, warm tones for over-ashed hair).
• Combine two shades at known ratios to custom-mix a tone that is not on the shade card.
• Predict fade patterns. Warm shades fade warm, cool shades fade cool.

Formulating to Neutralize Underlying Pigment

When you lift natural hair, warmth surfaces predictably. A level 6 lifts to orange. A level 7 lifts to orange-yellow. A level 8 lifts to yellow. Choose a tone code on the opposite side of the color wheel. Blue ashes neutralize orange. Violet neutralizes yellow. This is why ash and pearl tones are the go-to for lifting brunettes to blonde.

Keep a Cheat Sheet at Your Station

Until the system becomes second nature, keep a printed Goldwell shade chart visible. Highlight the tone codes you reach for most, and write your favorite formulas in a color journal so repeat services stay consistent.

Practice Exercises for Faster Mastery

If you want to get fluent with the Goldwell number system, try these practice drills. First, pick a random client photo and write out what shade you would formulate without looking at the shade chart. Compare your answer to the closest match on the chart. Second, take three shades at different levels and write out the underlying pigment that each would show if lifted two levels. Third, run through the neutralization wheel. Given a client with yellow-stage lift, which tone code do you reach for to cancel the warmth? The answer is V or P. Given orange-stage lift? A or NA. Running these drills for 10 minutes a day builds the mental reflex you need at the chair.

Shop Goldwell at Hair Color USA

Hair Color USA carries the full Goldwell shade library along with updated swatch charts and reference materials. Keep your station stocked and your formulations sharp. Shop all Goldwell products and order the shades you reach for every week.

Build your Goldwell shade wall with confidence at Hair Color USA, your Jackson, Michigan source for professional color.