Featured image | Hair Color USA

Paul Mitchell Color Level System Explained

Every professional hair color line uses a level and tone system to code its shades, and Paul Mitchell is no exception. If you can read the label, you can build formulas with confidence. If you cannot, you are guessing. This is the full breakdown of how Paul Mitchell numbers their color, what the letters mean, and how to use the system to build better formulas across The Color, The Demi, and Color XG.

The Level System: 1 Through 10

Level refers to how light or dark a shade is on a universal scale from 1 to 10. This scale is consistent across professional color brands, so a level 6 in Paul Mitchell is the same depth as a level 6 in any other reputable line.

  • Level 1: Black
  • Level 2: Darkest brown
  • Level 3: Dark brown
  • Level 4: Medium brown
  • Level 5: Light brown
  • Level 6: Dark blonde
  • Level 7: Medium blonde
  • Level 8: Light blonde
  • Level 9: Very light blonde
  • Level 10: Lightest blonde, nearly platinum

When reading a shade like 7N, the 7 tells you it is a medium blonde in depth. The N tells you the tone. Level always comes first.

The Tone Codes: What Comes After the Number

The letter or letters after the level tell you the tone family. Paul Mitchell uses standard tone codes that appear across The Color, The Demi, and Color XG.

  • N: Natural (balanced, neutral)
  • NN: Natural-Natural (more concentrated, for resistant grey)
  • A: Ash (cool, blue or green-based)
  • V: Violet (purple-based, neutralizes yellow)
  • G: Gold (warm, yellow-based)
  • KG: Kupfer Gold (copper gold, warm)
  • CC: Clear Copper (true copper tone)
  • CB: Cool Brown (neutral-cool brown)
  • RV: Red Violet (cool red)
  • R: Red (true red)
  • B: Blue (used for correction and cool deposit)

So 7A is a medium blonde with an ash tone. 6G is a dark blonde with a gold tone. 5CB is a light brown with a cool-brown tone.

Reading the Primary and Secondary Tones

Some shades have two tone letters. When they do, the first letter is the primary (dominant) tone, and the second is the secondary (supporting) tone.

  • 7GA: Medium blonde, gold primary with ash secondary. Warm but softened
  • 8AG: Light blonde, ash primary with gold secondary. Cool but softened
  • 6RV: Dark blonde, red primary with violet secondary. Deep cool red

Read these in order. The first tone drives the result. The second tone adjusts the undertone slightly without overpowering the primary.

How Levels Interact With Developer

Understanding levels is only half the system. The other half is how much developer you use to move between them.

  • 10 volume: Deposit only, up to half a level of lift
  • 20 volume: 1 to 2 levels of lift, standard for grey coverage
  • 30 volume: 2 to 3 levels of lift
  • 40 volume: 3 to 4 levels of lift, reserved for high lift formulas

If your client is a level 5 and wants to be a level 7, you need 20 volume developer and a level 7 shade. Match the target shade to the level you are trying to reach, not to the level you are starting from.

The High Lift Series

Paul Mitchell also offers High Lift (HL) shades, which are formulated to lift four to five levels on natural hair when mixed with 30 or 40 volume developer. These are coded separately from the standard line and usually labeled HLN, HLA, HLV, and so on. They are for natural, uncolored hair only. Never use High Lift shades on previously colored mids and ends.

Using the System to Build a Formula

A formula uses the level and tone system to answer two questions: what level do I need, and what tone family do I want? A client who is a natural level 5 asking for a warm medium blonde is:

  • Target level: 7
  • Tone: Gold
  • Formula: Paul Mitchell Color XG 7G mixed 1:1 with 20 volume developer
  • Processing: 35 minutes

Every permanent formula you build follows this same logic.

Shop Paul Mitchell at Hair Color USA

Hair Color USA stocks every level and tone across The Color, The Demi, Color XG, Pop XG, and Paul Mitchell Developer. Build any formula you need at real professional pricing with fast shipping. Shop all Paul Mitchell products and keep your full shade library stocked.

Once the level and tone system clicks, formulating gets faster and more predictable. Read the label, match the level, pick the tone, and choose the developer. The rest is just good application.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes Paul Mitchell different from other professional brands?

Every professional brand has unique formulation chemistry, shade ranges, and application characteristics. Paul Mitchell has built its reputation on specific strengths that appeal to professional stylists. The best way to evaluate is through hands-on experience with the product line and attending brand education.

Where can I buy Paul Mitchell products?

Hair Color USA carries the full professional Paul Mitchell line and ships nationwide. Professional hair color is designed for licensed cosmetologists and beauty professionals, but knowledgeable home colorists can also purchase from authorized professional retailers.

How do I get the best results with professional hair color?

Start with a thorough consultation and analysis of the hair's current condition and history. Choose the right product, developer volume, and processing time. Do a strand test when trying a new formula or working on compromised hair. Follow up with professional aftercare products to maintain the result.

Back to blog