Oligo Color Chart: Reading Levels and Tones

The Oligo Calura color chart follows the same international numbering system most professional lines use, but every brand has its own nuance. Knowing how to read the chart, match levels to tones, and build formulas in your head will speed up every color consultation. Here is a complete breakdown of the Oligo system so you can formulate without second-guessing. Spend 20 minutes with this guide and the chart will feel like second nature at the color bar.

The Level System

Oligo uses the universal 1 to 10 level system where 1 is black and 10 is the lightest blonde. Levels refer to how light or dark the hair is, with no regard for tone. Every shade in the Calura Permanent and Calura Gloss lines is numbered by level first. Reading the level is always the first step in identifying where a shade sits on the chart.

• Level 1: Black
• Level 2: Darkest brown
• Level 3: Dark brown
• Level 4: Medium brown
• Level 5: Light brown
• Level 6: Dark blonde
• Level 7: Medium blonde
• Level 8: Light blonde
• Level 9: Very light blonde
• Level 10: Lightest blonde

High Lift shades in the Calura Permanent line extend into levels 11 and 12 for additional lift on pre-lightened or very light natural hair. These shades are designed to work with 40 volume developer and a 1:2 mixing ratio.

The Tonal Families

After the level, every Oligo shade carries a letter or letters that identify the tonal family. The first letter is the primary tone, and any following letter is the secondary tone. Stacking tones is how manufacturers build more nuanced shades like Natural Brown or Chocolate Gold.

• N: Natural
• NB: Natural Brown
• NN: Intense Natural
• G: Gold
• C: Copper
• R: Red
• V: Violet
• M: Mahogany
• A: Ash
• B: Beige or Brown depending on context
• CH: Chocolate

Reading a Shade Number

Every shade number tells you the level, the primary tone, and the secondary tone. Once you know the key, you can look at any Oligo shade code and know exactly what is in the tube. This decoding skill is the difference between formulating from memory and running back to the chart every service.

Examples

• 7N: Level 7 Natural
• 6NB: Level 6 Natural Brown
• 8G: Level 8 Gold
• 5R: Level 5 Red
• 9A: Level 9 Ash
• 10V: Level 10 Violet
• 12B: High Lift Level 12 Beige
• 4CH: Level 4 Chocolate

Underlying Pigment and Neutralization

When you lift hair, the underlying pigment becomes visible. Knowing what color the hair wants to turn helps you pick the right neutralizing tone. This is one of the most important concepts in formulation and the reason the color wheel matters at the color bar.

• Levels 1 to 3: Red underlying, neutralize with green or ash
• Levels 4 to 5: Red-orange underlying, neutralize with blue-green
• Levels 6 to 7: Orange underlying, neutralize with blue
• Levels 8 to 9: Yellow-orange underlying, neutralize with violet-blue
• Level 10: Pale yellow underlying, neutralize with violet

Using Pure Pigments and Clear

Calura Pure Pigments are concentrated boosters that let you amplify a tone or custom-mix a shade. Clear is a no-pigment base that dilutes any shade while keeping the shine intact. Use Pure Pigments in small amounts, starting at 1 gram per ounce, and always mix into a finished formula rather than applying straight. Think of Pure Pigments as the spices of the color bar. A little goes a long way.

Formulation Tips

• Match level first, then pick tone based on the underlying pigment
• Neutralize with the opposite color on the wheel
• For gray coverage, lean on the N or NN series as part of the formula
• For vibrancy on pre-lightened hair, use Pure Pigments with Clear as a base
• Write down every formula in your guest notes for consistency next visit
• Use a scale for any formula that involves Pure Pigments or High Lift shades

Building a Consultation Around the Chart

The color chart is also a consultation tool. Bring the physical chart to every new client conversation and let them point to the shade they love. Guests communicate better when they can touch and see a sample rather than describe a color in abstract terms like warm, cool, or caramel. Ask what they want to avoid as much as what they want to achieve. That single question saves hours of corrective work down the line and makes the first service a win.

Shop Oligo at Hair Color USA

Hair Color USA stocks the full Oligo Calura color chart including every Natural, Gold, Copper, Red, Violet, Mahogany, Ash, and High Lift shade. Shop all Oligo products at pro pricing with fast shipping from Jackson, Michigan.

Build a complete color bar, train your team on the chart, and formulate with confidence every appointment.